At London Fashion Week, The Romance Isn’t Dead–It’s Just Delightfully Deranged

At London Fashion Week, The Romance Isn’t Dead–It’s Just Delightfully Deranged

London Fashion Week Gives Us Off-Kilter Romance

It goes without saying that most of the designers who show during London Fashion Week do not like to color inside the lines. In fact, much of the history of British fashion has bent towards the subversive, from the witty and gritty to the totally bonkers–think Mary Quant’s perverse (at the time) minis and the late, great Vivienne Westwood and Lee McQueen giving us punk corsets and bum pants. That mischief is what we always have to look forward to each season when London Fashion Week rolls around and the Spring 2024 collections did not disappoint.

The resident mayor of surrealist-ville is, of course, Jonathan Anderson. He is a designer who understands how to make us dream while also knowing exactly what it is we want to wear at a given moment in time. This season, he brought his eponymous brand JW Anderson into the trick-the-eye territory he’s made his signature as creative director at Loewe, with incredible hoodie and pant combos sculpted out of actual clay and feather-trimmed balloon cargos, which looked as though they were on the verge of exploding onto the models’ bodies. The pieces were playful and childlike, filled with the kind of innocent but intelligent whimsy that fashion can so often lack.

At London Fashion Week, The Romance Isn’t Dead–It’s Just Delightfully Deranged

JW Anderson

That push-and-pull of soft versus hard, femme versus fatale, is what made many of the London collections so alluring this season. One of the best in this category came by way of Chopova Lowena’s acid-trip collection, in which skater kids were decked out in silver hardware and flouncey ruffles that seemed made for not giving a fuck. Both sweet and a little rough around the edges, the collection felt like a modern love story, one that looks nothing like you imagined but full of authenticity, energy and passion.

Similarly, Molly Goddard’s smart, quirk-laced spring collection built a subversive take on a fantasy romance. Using her signature tulles and ball silhouettes as anchors, the designer incorporated pleating and pin tucking to mimic casually hiked-up hems and necklines. Details like inside-out seams and out-of-the-box proportions proved, once again, that Goddard is one of London’s most talented hands, but also emphasized her adeptness at reinterpreting old-school notions of enchanting clothes and the women who wear them.

At London Fashion Week, The Romance Isn’t Dead–It’s Just Delightfully Deranged

Molly Goddard Courtesy of Launchmetrics

And speaking of these women, the vast majority of London designers, Goddard and Chopova and Lowena-Irons among them, deserve props for casting women of all shapes in their shows. A romance with fashion belongs to everyone.

When it comes to casting, designer Matty Bovan always triumphs. The designer’s latest show featured supermodels like Precious Lee, Ashley Graham, and Richie Shazam decked out in explosions of electric, upcycled fabrics. The collection had a sort of Weird Barbie vibe–clothes that, thanks to Bovan’s intimate touch, had been played with over and over again (the designer is known to keep going back to the same garment multiple times). The result was deliciously wacky and artful, with mishmashed tops, dresses and jackets that looked like they’d both been loved and still have lots more love to give.

At London Fashion Week, The Romance Isn’t Dead–It’s Just Delightfully Deranged

Matty Bovan getty images

Romance has always been at the core of Simone Rocha’s eponymous brand, but with spring 2024, the designer certainly upped the ante. We dare you to try and not fall truly, madly, deeply for her transparent fabrics, made with real roses as boning. The same goes for an oddly shaped mini dress that gathered at the neckline and sleeves, giving the illusion of the model’s body wrapped sweetly in a giant flower petal. Rocha is a master when it comes to this kind of quirky sweetness, a sentiment that rings true even when it comes to her chunky, oft-bedazzled footwear which, this season, comes by way of a collaboration with Crocs. Dare I say, Rocha has brought sex appeal to everyone’s favorite ugly shoe with a sparkly, white, naughty platform heel.

At London Fashion Week, The Romance Isn’t Dead–It’s Just Delightfully Deranged

Simone Rocha Courtesy of Launchmetrics

Romance and naughtiness go hand in hand, and no one handled the latter better than Mowalola and KNWLS. While Mowalola Ogunlesi interpreted the fetishization of pain and crashing with more direct anime porno prints, boxer-inspired barely-there dresses, and sex worker-inspired mini skirts, Charlotte Knowles continued to take a slightly more restrained approach. And by restrained I do mean harnesses of varying types–the designer and her partner Alexandre Arsenault pumped up the volume on their signature corsets, bodysuits, pull-ties, straps, and balconette bras. KNWLS has always leaned into lingerie as ready-to-wear but what’s been so impressive to watch over the last year is the way the label has elevated and evolved into something so much more than the sexed-up tops made famous by those like Bella Hadid. There was plenty to wear in the spring lineup, namely a beaded fringe mock neck top and mini skirt set and leather and denim outerwear that ranged from floor-sweeping trenches to cool biker jackets.

But a more expected vision of romance was also plenty visible over the last few days, namely by way of the spring collections from Richard Quinn and Erdem. Quinn dedicated his show and his collection of brilliant, beautifully constructed gowns and dresses to his late father–a sweet, ethereal tribute that was as thoughtful as it was dazzling. His hand-beading and floral embroidery were the stuff of dreams. Similarly, Erdem Moralıoğlu sent us up into the clouds with what was one of his most impressive and provocative collections to date.

At London Fashion Week, The Romance Isn’t Dead–It’s Just Delightfully Deranged


As one of my colleagues noted, it’s as if the designer has had a great breakthrough, one manifested through inside-out patchwork Barbour-style trapeze coats and tapestry-inspired ball skirts. His designs this season were created as a nod to the singularly English style and personality of aristocrat Deborah Cavendish, Duchess of Devonshire. Known as being a master hostess with impeccable taste, the Mitford sister had a penchant for bug-shaped jewelry and a slight obsession with Elvis. It felt like a fitting reference for a London Fashion Week chock-full of off-kilter femininity, of beautiful things that you have to focus your eye on a bit more in order to really appreciate the beauty. And while Daniel Lee’s second outing for Burberry wasn’t explicitly romantic, it was somewhat of a love story to the brand’s legacy, told through sensual separates and the designer’s retooling of the classic trench.

In summary, here’s a request for those designers across the pond: stay weird, London. It’s what keeps us all coming back for more.

News Related


Fendi opens Milan Fashion Week with a supermodel moment

‘Despite its growth, Fendi has remained essentially what it was when it started almost a century ago: a female-centric family business’ writes Slater – Getty Fendi, the first big show ... Read more »

‘We managed to draw quite a crowd’: a brief history of protest at fashion weeks

Last Friday, on the first day of London fashion week, a woman dressed as a goat screamed as passersby on a busy London shopping street looked on, aghast. “I had ... Read more »

OPINION - Sparkling London Fashion Week reveals our superpower

Adwoa Aboah walks for Burberry during London Fashion Week (AFP via Getty Images) This week, London has erupted in a brilliant explosion of colour and creativity as fashion has taken ... Read more »

Miley Cyrus Is All Hollywood Glamour in This Asymmetrical Little Black Dress

Miley Cyrus Is All Hollywood Glamour in This Asymmetrical Little Black Dress Miley Cyrus is in her sophisticated, independent woman era. The hitmaker shared photos of a recent sleek party ... Read more »

France’s schools are in crisis – and it has nothing to do with pupils’ dress

Photograph: Anadolu Agency/Getty Images Shortly before schools opened for the new term in September, Unicef France issued an alert that almost 2,000 pupils were homeless, twice as many as in ... Read more »

Allison Bornstein takes stress out of getting dressed: Her ‘3 Word Method’ revealed

Taking Allison Bornstein’s advice requires a bit of vulnerable self-reflection to determine one’s true sense of style. Her book “Wear It Well: Reclaim Your Closet & Rediscover the Joy of ... Read more »

Patriots fan who was killed in fight at game once saved girl’s life in heroic beach rescue: ‘I couldn’t turn back’

The Patriots fan and dad of two who died after another fan sucker-punched him during New England’s game against the Miami Dolphins over the weekend selflessly saved a young girl’s ... Read more »

5 of Maggie Cheung’s most memorable screen outfits, from In the Mood for Love’s cheongsam to the catsuit in Irma Vep and Hero’s period costumes

After coming second in 1983’s Miss Hong Kong Pageant beauty contest, Maggie Cheung Man-yuk went on to become one of Hong Kong’s most celebrated and idolised actresses. Cheung is known ... Read more »

Rita Ora unveils fashion collaboration with Primark

The first Rita Ora x Primark collection will be available in all Primark stores (Primark) Rita Ora has launched her own clothing collection at Primark, with the discount styles reportedly ... Read more »

Queen Letizia of Spain Pairs Her Little Black Dress With Giant Gold Rose Earrings

Queen Letizia of Spain Pairs Her Little Black Dress With Giant Gold Rose Earrings The most stylish Spanish royal kicked off the week with a fashionable outing in Barcelona. Queen ... Read more »

Priyanka Chopra’s Little Black Dress Is Covered in Cutouts and Tassels

Priyanka Chopra isn’t one to dress boring. While serving on a panel for the Victoria’s Secret Tour Impact Fund at New York City’s Tavern on the Green on Monday night, ... Read more »

Opera critic calls 81-year-old actress’s make-up ‘frightful’ ... but she wasn’t wearing any

Rose Knox-Peebles plays Erda, the earth goddess, in Das Rheingold at the Royal Opera House – Monika Rittershaus/Royal Opera House When audiences attended the opening night of Das Rheingold at ... Read more »

H&M is latest fashion retailer in UK to charge to return online purchases

The Swedish chain H&M has become the latest in the fashion sector to start charging shoppers to return unwanted items bought online. The group, the world’s second-largest clothing retailer after ... Read more »

Amazon Prime Day fashion deals to shop this year

Amazon Prime Day fashion deals to shop in 2023 Christian Vierig / Contributor – Getty Images Amazon Prime Day is always an excellent opportunity to pick up bargains for less ... Read more »

Black British fashion celebrated in London show The Missing Thread

Photograph: Guy Bell/Shutterstock Black designers have long been crucial to the history of UK fashion, with names such as Bruce Oldfield, Ozwald Boateng and Walé Adeyemi redefining British style over ... Read more »

The 12 London Fashion Week catwalk looks that you can wear in real life

Fashion week trends Fashion week trends The overarching theme at the latest round of London Fashion Week shows? Wearability. Yes, in a shocking plot twist, the spring/summer 2024 catwalks were ... Read more »

Ikea, Shein, Zara all learned the hard way: why the Japanese market is a tough nut to crack, and expert tips on doing so

A number of successful foreign retailers have famously flopped in their initial attempts to establish a foothold in Japan, with some of the biggest names withdrawing from a potentially lucrative ... Read more »

I do planks above $2K of Hermès lipsticks — it’s motivation to stay in shape

Makeup influencer Savina Chow racked up more than 11 million Instagram Reels views for doing a plank workout over $2,000 worth of Hermes lipstick. NY Post Composite Her obsession with ... Read more »

What happened next to Diana’s most famous outfits

This month, no less than five significant pieces from Diana’s wardrobe are being sold – three from Petho’s collection, via Julien’s Auction House in Los Angeles, plus two at Sotheby’s ... Read more »

New York Fashion Week Finds a New Way Forward

New York Fashion Week Finds a New Way Forward Courtesy of Proenza Schouler Time and place have been major talking points throughout the first few days of New York Fashion ... Read more »

Gisele Bündchen ditches pants for all-denim look at NYFW party

Tom Brady’s ex-wife Gisele Bündchen embraced the Canadian tuxedo Saturday after showing up to the star-studded  Frame Dinner Party during New York’s Fashion Week. Rachpoot/Bauer-Griffin/GC Images She has good jeans. ... Read more »

What role does smell have in wellness? A lot – perfume makers believe they can affect the body and mind, improve mood and prompt relaxation

“Fragrance is all about mood and souvenirs,” says perfumer Mark Buxton when I meet him at Nose, a leading perfume store in Paris. Buxton, the nose behind fashion label Comme ... Read more »

England prove there is beauty in winning the Borthwick way

Photograph: Nicolas Tucat/AFP/Getty Images Well hell’s bells, behold Borthersball and tremble! It’s a game of caterpillar rucks, scrums, and up-and-unders in which clean breaks are for noses and overlaps are ... Read more »

Peter Do Wants to Dress New York in Helmut Lang

Peter Do Wants to Dress New York in Helmut Lang Victor Virgile Up until seven days ago, I had never seen Peter Do’s face. Most people in fashion haven’t. The ... Read more »

Desire and death at the beauty spa – a gothic thrill of a novel

Rouge is the fourth novel by Mona Awad – DT/Scribner Belle is a thirty-something woman obsessed with beauty routines. The first chapter of Rouge, Mona Awad’s fourth novel, opens with ... Read more »

How ‘Brand Meghan’ will soon be dominating fashion

Meghan’s style choices at the Invictus Games have a track record for making a serious impact – Karwai Tang/WireImage On September 7, New York Fashion Week will be in full ... Read more »

Coco Chanel exhibition reveals fashion designer was part of French resistance

A major retrospective of Coco Chanel has unearthed evidence that the fashion designer was a documented member of the French resistance. The previously unseen documents will go on display, along ... Read more »

Madison Keys’ emotional press conference leaves fans ‘gutted’ after agonizing US Open loss

Dreams of an all-American U.S. Open finals were dashed Thursday when Madison Keys lost in three sets to No. 2 seed Aryna Sabalenka, who will face Coco Gauff for the ... Read more »

Jennifer Lopez Is a High Fashion Cowgirl in a Fringe Jacket, Snakeskin Boots, and No Pants

New York Fashion Week has officially kicked off, and Jennifer Lopez braved the city's unseasonably soaring temperatures with a look that embraced this season's pantsless trend. The multi-hyphenate sat front ... Read more »

Emma Watson's 'naked' dress is the most elegant we've seen yet

Emma Watson puts elegant twist on ‘naked’ dressing Gilbert Flores – Getty Images Naked dressing has taken over red carpets this year, and it's showing no signs of slowing down ... Read more »
Kênh kiến thức kỹ năng, phát triển bản thân, hướng nghiệp, blog nhân sự